Zardozi the traditional art of court embroidery is the sheer magic of nimble fingers and imaginative designs, envisaged by the ensemble of lustrous metallic wire which was traditionally the silver wire coated/plated with gold, silk threads, beads and stones.

Done with metal wire and metal pieces or sequins on velvet, satin and heavy silk bases, Zari is one of the most famous and elaborate techniques in metal embroidery. An ancient art, dating back to Rigvedic times, was used to adorn the dresses of Gods and Goddesses. The original embroidery of Zari was done with pure silver wires coated with real gold known as Kalabatun. Though silver and gold threads have now been replaced with synthetic and artificial threads, the art remains the same.

These days it is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc.

Popularly known as Aari work, Zari, involves use of beads and a special needle known as Muthia which is similar to a crochet needle. Muthia is used for Zardozi work, in which Kallavattu, Sitara, Moti or Salma is trapped. Some main varieties of this work are Dapka, Salma, Nakshi, Aara and Gota. The difference between Aari and Zardozi work is in the method of embroidery and material used. Zardozi uses Dabka (spring type of a thread), katori, tikena, and sitara (sequins). Both methods are used to create fascinating designs. The craft flourished during the Mughal period especially to cater to the needs of kings and lords.

Method of Zardozi Embroidery : The process of doing Zardozi embroidery starts with the craftsmen sitting cross-legged around the Addaa, the wooden framework, with their tools. The tools include curved hooks, needles, salmaa pieces (gold wires), sitaaras (metal stars), round-sequins, glass & plastic beads, dabkaa (thread) and kasab (thread). The second step in the process is to trace out the design on the cloth, if possible fabrics like silk, satin, velvet, etc. The fabric is then stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Needle is used to pull out each zardozi element and then, it is integrated into the basic design by pushing the needle into the fabric.

Main Center of Zardozi Embroidery in India : Zardosi embroidery work is mainly a specialty of Lucknow, Bhopal, Hyderabad, Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer and Chennai.

Present Glory of zardozi : For the time being, Surat and Banaras remain the principal suppliers of zari material and zardozi crafts. Major handicraft shops sell these embroidered garments, which have become very popular now. Taking orders for embroidery to the customer's specifications is a major development brought into this art by the craftsmen. As a whole, the popularity of this extraordinary craft is quite on rise.