Sandwiched between the Chapora and Arondem rivers, the predominantly Hindu Taluka of Pernem --in the Novas Conquistas area - is Goa's northernmost district and one of its least explored regions.

A Coastal Attraction
Apart from the fishing village of Arambol, which attracts a trickle of backpackers seeking a rustic alternative to the resorts south of the river Chapora, the beautiful Pernem coastline of long sandy beaches, lagoons and coconut plantations has few settlements equipped to cope with visitors. However, the picturesque, if bumpy, journey north from Arambol to Terekol fort, on the Maharashtrian border, provides ample incentive to spend a day away from the beach.

Local Transport
Heading to Pernem from Anjuna, Vagator, or Chapora, one has to travel a few kilometres inland to pick up the Main Calangute Road, as it runs north over a low ridge of laterite hills, to the river crossing at Siolim. Boatmen sometimes paddle tourists over the estuary from Chapora too, although their dugouts are unstable when laden with passengers and they can't carry motorbikes. The two car ferries that chug back and forth across the river from the ramp at Siolim remain the only dependable link, and one of the high points of the journey north.

Once across the river, head straight on until one reaches a fork in the road, where a sign to "Harmal/Terekol" marks the quick route to Arambol.